Date with a Chemist
September 9th, 2008
This is for the friend you almost killed during the forth of July fireworks because while everyone else said “ahhh” she said “strontium carbonate! barium chloride!” Impress her with some molecular gastronomy (she’ll like the phrase even if the following chefs do not) and prepare to listen to her gush excitedly as she dissects what lasers, chemical powders, flash freezing, and “glue” went into each course.
LOWER EAST SIDE
wd-50
[50 Clinton St.] [212.477.2900]
Wylie Dufresne’s cutting-edge cooking is what got New York in such a tizzy over beakers in the kitchen in the first place. But rest assured, he is certainly more chef than chemist and the odd combinations while head-scratching are generally delightful (popcorn soup!) Indulge in the tasting menu or choose your courses by ingredients that strike your fancy just don’t second guess if they go with what they are paired with (somehow, they always do.)
SOHO
Tailor
[525 Broome St.] [212.334.5182]
Sam Mason, former dessert chef of wd-50, struck out on his own blending sweet, savory, and all sorts of tricks at his soho eatery. The combinations may seem absurd (mango ravioli, mustard gnocchi, marrow beads) but when it works it really works. The pork belly with miso butterscotch is heavenly and the crumble cocktail (brown butter, rum, and cloves) almost makes me wish for cold weather.
UPPER WEST SIDE
Jean Georges
[1 Central Park West] [212.299.3900]
Executive pastry chef, Johnny Iuzzini, does way more than just cookies. Utilizing everything from sugar to hydrocolloids and whisks to medical equipment he creates such inventive desserts as rhubarb noodles and Meyer lemon flexi-curd.
EAST VILLAGE
PDT
[113 St. Mark’s Pl.] [212.614.0386]
Your friend may just have to change what she’s mixing after tasting Jim Meehan’s cocktails (bacon-infused bourbon, really? genius.) This secret bar is accessed through a vintage telephone booth in Crif Dogs. Even better, you can order off their menu- pair your cocktail with the Wylie Dog (complete with deep-fried mayo, freeze-dried onions, and tomato molasses) and thank your chemistry teacher.